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BOEDO visto por el mundo

Nota New York Times sobre el barrio de Boedo.
Rebirth of a Bohemian Barrio By IAN MOUNT Published: January 27, 2008

Making the Most of Those Long Argentine Nights

The rewards, however, are worth the fatigue. At Appetite, I was led around the corner to a warehouse where Mr.
Cusnir and the fashion label Maison Trash were rehearsing a production of Mr. Cusnir?s art ? complete with sand,
palm tree and big model helicopter. And in the Pan y Arte restaurant in Boedo, I ate sublime Mendoza -style cuisine-
sweet - corn empanadas, lush calabaza casserole and excellent Mendoza malbec wine ? in a room full of
actors and directors. In each case, I felt as if I?d begun to penetrate that tricky tourist - local barrier.

Las recompensas, sin embargo, valen la fatiga. En el apetito, me condujeron alrededor de la esquina a un almacén
en donde Sr. Cusnir y la basura de Maison de la etiqueta de la manera ensayaba una producción del arte de Sr.
Cusnir - terminar con la arena, el árbol de palma y el helicóptero modelo grande. Y en el restaurante Pan y Arte en
Boedo, yo comí sublimo la cocina del Mendoza - estilo - empanadas del maíz dulce, cazuela lush del calabaza y
vino excelente del malbec de Mendoza - en un cuarto por completo de actores y de directores. En cada caso, me
sentía como si hubiera comenzado a penetrar esa barrera turista - local difícil.



Rebirth of a Bohemian Barrio

Published: January 27, 2008

Where to Stay - Where to Eat - What to Do Go to the Buenos Aires Travel Guide

The Boedo section of Buenos Aires was an artistic hotbed in the early 20th century, home to Argentine cultural
giants like the writer Roberto Arlt and the tango lyricist Homero Manzi. But it drifted into anonymity after World War
II, a low-slung, middle-class neighborhood whose famous soccer stadium was razed and turned into a Carrefour
In the last few years, however, Boedo has experienced a cultural rebirth. As other bohemian neighborhoods like
San Telmo and Palermo have been gentrified, independent theaters, underground restaurants and trendy bars
have sprung up amid the skinny, century-old ?chorizo? cottages that still define Boedo. The city has installed
semi-figurative sculptures on many sidewalks, and tattooed artists now mingle with longtime residents who were
teenagers during Boedo?s last boom.
Much of the resurgence can be attributed to the arts-minded Marín family, who moved to Buenos Aires from the
Argentine city of Mendoza and opened several restaurants and cultural centers, including Germinal Marín?s Pan y
Arte (Avenida Boedo 880; 54-11-4957-6702), a restaurant that serves traditional Mendoza dishes including a kind
of Argentine shepherd?s pie called pastel al barro (22 pesos, or about $6.90 at 3.2 pesos to the dollar). Housed in
a former printing shop, the bistro also has live tango and Latin jazz shows, in addition to a 45-seat theater.Boedo?s
theatrical wings are on display at the Timbre 4 (Boedo 640; 54-11-4932-4395;, a 50-seat playhouse
started by the playwright Claudio Tolcachir. Since 2004, it has been home to Mr. Tolcachir?s award-winning
comedy ?La Omisión de la Familia Coleman,? attracting celebrities like Francis Ford Coppola.
The barrio?s bohemian past has been discovered. Across the street from Pan y Arte is Cafe Margot (Boedo 857;
54-11-4957-0001), an old French-style cafe, replete with bow-tied waiters, black-and-white floor tiles and old
cigarette signs, that draws a new generation of artists and writers.
And at the Monte de Piedad Museum (Boedo 870, 2nd floor; 54-11-4931-1605), visitors can see a recreation of
the Cafe Biarritz, a famed leftist hangout that was located one floor below. The museum also traces the history of
the Banco Ciudad from pawnshop to modern bank, with fascinating artifacts like a set of brass banisters that was
bashed by angry customers in the aftermath of Argentina?s 2001 economic crisis.
The neighborhood?s boom is not restricted to Avenida Boedo. On nearby Avenida Carlos Calvo is the rarest of
rarities in wine-drenched Argentina: a pub with an extensive beer menu. Cossab (Carlos Calvo 4199, 54-11-4925-
2505; has some 100 beers from Argentina and beyond, and is popular with university
students and artists. A few blocks away, a similar crowd drinks mojitos (15 pesos) at Klub Killer (Castro Barros
809; 54-11-4932-9261;, a dark, bordello-red bar wedged inside an old home.
Boedo lacks interesting shopping, but there are a few exceptions. In a mall at the intersection made famous in the
tango ?Sur? is Almacén Porteño (Galería Gran Boedo, Avenida San Juan 3625, No. 47; 54-9-11-4979-8604; www., a tiny record store with an extensive collection of tango CDs (15 to 24 pesos), photos and
sheet music. The tango-obsessed owner, Juan Carlos Bellini, also sells old tango LPs online (from $8).
The city?s current fad over puertas cerradas ? restaurants in private homes ? has also reached Boedo. Held at
the home of a local chef, Máximo Cabrera, Kensho (54-11-4957-7679; serves ambitious organic
vegetarian dishes like ceviche made from tofu and oyster mushrooms (about 65 pesos a person for dinner).
After the meal, Mr. Cabrera and his wife, Guillermina Días, perform songs that sound like Sade with a techno edge
? a fitting soundtrack for an old bohemian quarter finding a new voice.




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